Panchakarma is an Ayurvedic purification program. As my pre-treatment I had 3 days of shirodara and oil massage (explained in further detail in my Christmas Eve post). The treatment itself is 5 days and I am on day 4.
Day 1:
I was given this syrupy liquid to swish around my mouth before instructed to drink 50ml of ghee (clarified butter) followed by a medicinal tea. It was not so bad. It was a little gross drinking so much ghee, but not terrible. I basically just hung out in my room all day reading Holy Cow by Sarah MacDonald. I felt pretty exhausted so I decided not to go anywhere. At 6:30 I had a bowl of incredibly bland, watery porridge. Then I went to bed at about 8:30, for lack of anything better to do.
Day 2:
Again I got the same as Day 1, but with 100ml of ghee. It was really horrible to drink that much, and I really felt like retching after. I was good about it though. I went out for a bit in the afternoon, just to check my email and whatnot. Again, I had some porridge later on and then finished my book before going to bed.
Day 3:
Yesterday! I was given 150ml of ghee! It was possibly the most disgusting thing I've ever done. Honest to God. I felt nauseous pretty much all day and I could taste the oil and grease for hours and hours and hours (it was probably 6 before I couldn't taste the ghee anymore and I had taken it at 8am). I went to bed at 7pm last night because I felt so sick I couldn't even read.
Day 4:
Today. I feel much better. I had a gentle Ayurvedic massage today followed by a swedan (sauna) and then body scrub. It was actually quite nice. Today is my day of rest before I am given the "medicine" tomorrow, which is apparently some sort of herbal laxative. So it looks like I will probably spend all day tomorrow in my room, rather, on the toilet. Oh well, I am so glad it's just one more day after today. Also, today I got to eat kicheri, which is rice and mung beans. It tasted absolutely decadent after only eating porridge, bland bland porridge for 3 days. Every night I have been dreaming of food. I can't wait.
Hm... well, I think this is a boring post. I was going to write a lot more, but I've been writing some emails and doing some searching, so I have been here for almost 2 hours already, meaning I don't feel like writing anymore.
One interesting thing though. There is this pigeon who roosts in my window sill and she has 2 eggs. I've been watching, I can't wait for them to hatch. I think it might be annoying, but I'm excited anyway.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Christmas: Alone in India
Sometimes India makes me want to cry. It just happens, out of the blue. It's always because I see some particularly maimed beggar, or a mangy dog, or a dog with his head half smashed in from some accident, or a cow with bloated belly from eating plastic bags but the rest of the body is clearly emaciated, or a goat hobbling with a broken leg... god, there are so many terrible things to see. But the incredible part is not that sometimes it makes me want to cry; the incredible part is that it doesn't always make me want to cry. Sometimes I just walk with my head high and I am unseeing and unhearing. I often walk and hum to myself, sometimes I sing this mantra for universal peace that I learned at the ashram. I wanted to post the words, but I cannot find a copy of it online, so I'll have to transcribe it later from my journal. Somehow, if I'm singing this mantra, I feel like everything is okay and honestly, it seems like people bug me less. It's not as though I'm singing loudly or anything. I'm really just singing under my breath, so I reckon they'd only hear if they were close (have I mentioned how noisy India is?).
Today was one of those days where I had to sing the universal peace mantra just to get by. I walked to the ashram thinking, again, that I might go in to see the Christmas ado, but I couldn't do it. I don't know if I'm lacking curiosity, courage or will, but I just couldn't bring myself to go in there. Instead I went to the German Bakery and treated myself to a slice of lemon cake and a cappuccino. Tomorrow I start my 5 fast. It's not really a fast- I drink a bunch of ghee in the morning and then I get a bowl of porridge which looks about as exciting as the watery gruel you'd imagine they fed to Oliver in Oliver Twist. I think I will find it difficult, especially the drinking butter bit.
Anyway, after passing so many beggars today I put some change in my pocket and I found the remaining cigarettes that I have left over from my last digression and made them easily accessible to give away. Then I started walking (to this internet shed) and singing and I don't know what happened, but I got here with all my change in my pocket and these accursed cigarettes still in my purse. It's like all the terrors just disappeared, and seriously, I was looking!
I also gave a little gift to Lidia this morning. I just left it at her door with a Christmas card I made. I kind of hope she doesn't react. I almost didn't give it to her because I don't really want to make up with her, but I already had it for her and it seemed very small and petty not to give it to her. You know, Christmas spirit and all that jazz.
On a lighter note, I am doing a little Christmas line dancing with singing performance with some other folks tomorrow morning. How bizarre! Haha... we're singing Santa Claus Is Coming To Town, a little tardy, considering we're doing it the day after Christmas!! Oh well, maybe he's coming on India time, but he's using North American time so it'll still be Christmas in North America and in India it's quite normal to be late... make sense?! No problem!
Well, I think I will be on the internet every day this week. It is an easy activity which I can achieve even while fasting, so you'll get lots of my incredibly deep thoughts during panchakarma! ha ha read on!
Today was one of those days where I had to sing the universal peace mantra just to get by. I walked to the ashram thinking, again, that I might go in to see the Christmas ado, but I couldn't do it. I don't know if I'm lacking curiosity, courage or will, but I just couldn't bring myself to go in there. Instead I went to the German Bakery and treated myself to a slice of lemon cake and a cappuccino. Tomorrow I start my 5 fast. It's not really a fast- I drink a bunch of ghee in the morning and then I get a bowl of porridge which looks about as exciting as the watery gruel you'd imagine they fed to Oliver in Oliver Twist. I think I will find it difficult, especially the drinking butter bit.
Anyway, after passing so many beggars today I put some change in my pocket and I found the remaining cigarettes that I have left over from my last digression and made them easily accessible to give away. Then I started walking (to this internet shed) and singing and I don't know what happened, but I got here with all my change in my pocket and these accursed cigarettes still in my purse. It's like all the terrors just disappeared, and seriously, I was looking!
I also gave a little gift to Lidia this morning. I just left it at her door with a Christmas card I made. I kind of hope she doesn't react. I almost didn't give it to her because I don't really want to make up with her, but I already had it for her and it seemed very small and petty not to give it to her. You know, Christmas spirit and all that jazz.
On a lighter note, I am doing a little Christmas line dancing with singing performance with some other folks tomorrow morning. How bizarre! Haha... we're singing Santa Claus Is Coming To Town, a little tardy, considering we're doing it the day after Christmas!! Oh well, maybe he's coming on India time, but he's using North American time so it'll still be Christmas in North America and in India it's quite normal to be late... make sense?! No problem!
Well, I think I will be on the internet every day this week. It is an easy activity which I can achieve even while fasting, so you'll get lots of my incredibly deep thoughts during panchakarma! ha ha read on!
Friday, December 24, 2010
Christmas Eve shopping
For Christmas I bought myself a ticket to Bangalore and a ticket to Sri Lanka. Pretty sweet, eh? I also took a walk down to the ashram and considered going in to listen to their Christmas choir, but I chickened out last minute. You have to go through too much security, and although I don't have anything to hide, it's still irritating and not worth the trouble.
[I was just complimented on how fast I type, by a man in this internet cafe...er, more like internet shed.]
Really, for Christmas and New Years I am being a total dork and staying in an Ayurveda Hospital, which is similar to a retirement home. I will be undergoing Pancharkama, which is a fairly intense detox. Yesterday and today I had some medicines I had to take (one in honey the other in ghee), plus I had an Ayurveda massage (lots and lots of oil) and shirodara, followed by some oil in my ears and nose, inhaling some smoking reed through my nose (I have no idea what it is), a full body scrub, some concoction to gargle, and then they "smoke" my hair (they literally billow some scented smoke into my hair, it's kind of nice actually).
In short: this is not where I could have ever foreseen myself spending Christmas and New Years. Let alone, doing a hardcore cleanse, like Panchakarma. I haven't really begun the "hardcore" bit yet, but I've been told it involves drinking relatively large amounts of ghee (clarified butter). I'm a little worried; that sounds pretty gross. Luckily, tomorrow will just be a repeat of today and yesterday, which is nice.
I swear, I am such an old lady sometimes. For fun, I am doing line dancing to Christmas carols with some older women (and one gent!). I have impressed everyone with my incredible aptitude for the moves... really though, I shouldn't brag, I had lots of experience on Savary.
[I was just complimented on how fast I type, by a man in this internet cafe...er, more like internet shed.]
Really, for Christmas and New Years I am being a total dork and staying in an Ayurveda Hospital, which is similar to a retirement home. I will be undergoing Pancharkama, which is a fairly intense detox. Yesterday and today I had some medicines I had to take (one in honey the other in ghee), plus I had an Ayurveda massage (lots and lots of oil) and shirodara, followed by some oil in my ears and nose, inhaling some smoking reed through my nose (I have no idea what it is), a full body scrub, some concoction to gargle, and then they "smoke" my hair (they literally billow some scented smoke into my hair, it's kind of nice actually).
In short: this is not where I could have ever foreseen myself spending Christmas and New Years. Let alone, doing a hardcore cleanse, like Panchakarma. I haven't really begun the "hardcore" bit yet, but I've been told it involves drinking relatively large amounts of ghee (clarified butter). I'm a little worried; that sounds pretty gross. Luckily, tomorrow will just be a repeat of today and yesterday, which is nice.
I swear, I am such an old lady sometimes. For fun, I am doing line dancing to Christmas carols with some older women (and one gent!). I have impressed everyone with my incredible aptitude for the moves... really though, I shouldn't brag, I had lots of experience on Savary.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
The Complaining Woman
I was sad to leave Goa and leaving in the taxi in the morning with Lidia, I really second-guessed myself. Lidia is quite crazy: she is known, especially by businesses, as The Complaining Woman. No. I am not joking. She honestly complains all the time. I won't go into details, because then I'm just complaining, but suffice to say, I usually just let her choose the restaurant or seats, or whatever it might be, since she is so incredibly picky. Well, we got in a bit of a fight last night, actually, she was screaming at me in the street. It was really quite unusual and surreal. I had to bite my cheeks not to laugh. Here is this skinny, big-eyed, 50 year old, intense Italian woman screaming at me for not being grateful (oh the irony!) enough to her while these street vendors try to sell me some door decorations every time she takes a breath, or looks away, her jaw set hard, to translate some other insults from Italian into English for me.
But let me backtrack.
We initially left Agonda for Hampi in Karnataka. It is a really beautiful place. As I said to my mother last night (and maybe in a postcard too): if you can imagine that everything has a soul, but that the soul of a rock, for instance, is small and hard to feel/sense; in Hampi, these boulders are so big, and they look like they have been thrown down from the heavens, and I swear- these rocks have soul. They are magic. And it's obvious, but also kind of odd, that people would build so many temples here. The number of temples is ridiculous, and it makes me wonder why they're even necessary when nature has provided the most beautiful space to pray already.
On our last day there, I rose early to climb this mountain (to a temple) to watch the sunrise. The sunrise itself was unremarkable, but the view was astounding! I felt a bit stupid climbing up in the dark, alone, but I'm glad I did it. Later, Lidia and I climbed 500 steps to the Hanuman (Monkey) temple which was also very nice, followed by some other temples and then a great fight with the rickshaw driver (excitement!). Later still, we took a coracle boat down the river to some other temples (see? too many temples!). I got to paddle the coracle boat for awhile, it's quite easy actually. So that was our last day, but it was the busiest day. We did so much, I was truly exhausted afterward.
Yesterday, we left Hampi to come to Puttaparthi. I was lucky, and got a room in the Ayurveda center. Lidia and I went to the ashram for dinner. It is a really really weird, cultish kind of place. People are fanatical about Sai Baba, and they all seem to believe he is God. Literally. This shit kind of gives me the creeps. The ashram is like a village. It was shops and restaurants and banks, it's huge. There are some really arbitrary rules, like women must have a shawl over their shoulders, but apparently they aren't dictated by Sai Baba (but you can't come in if you don't have a scarf and you're a woman). One positive thing I'll say, is that you don't have to worry about being ripped off in there. Everyone is really fair and honest. Everything is cheap, which means that even the poorer Indians can afford to come, and there are lots of Indians there. Indians come, as well as many foreigners, as a sort of pilgrimage. Anyway, the place kind of gives me the creeps, but it's interesting to see. Heh, there is this huge bookstore and I got all excited, but then when I started looking around I realized it was all books on Sai Baba. Not a single book about anything else!
Oh well, as I said, I am staying at the Ayurveda clinic. I am going to look into to doing some treatments, like maybe Panchakarma, I'll have to see what the doctor thinks. I don't know yet how long I'll stay, I may have some difficulties getting out of here, just due to trains being full and such... we'll see.
I think Lidia won't talk to me anymore. I saw her this morning at breakfast and she would barely look at me. Don't get me wrong, her temper tantrum wasn't entirely groundless, but it was definitely an overreaction to a small affair and to be honest, I don't really care to apologize to her. Mostly, because I'm not sorry. I think I put up with enough of her crap to be a bit annoying once in a while. But yeah, wah wah wah, as I always say.
One more thing though, the fight with Lidia was about shoes. Ever since my shoes were stolen, I cannot find a decent pair of sandals. I have already broken 3 pairs of Indian sandals, and then I ditched another pair because they were so uncomfortable. Today I bought another pair, my 5th pair, I hope they'll be good. *fingers crossed* *toes crossed*
But let me backtrack.
We initially left Agonda for Hampi in Karnataka. It is a really beautiful place. As I said to my mother last night (and maybe in a postcard too): if you can imagine that everything has a soul, but that the soul of a rock, for instance, is small and hard to feel/sense; in Hampi, these boulders are so big, and they look like they have been thrown down from the heavens, and I swear- these rocks have soul. They are magic. And it's obvious, but also kind of odd, that people would build so many temples here. The number of temples is ridiculous, and it makes me wonder why they're even necessary when nature has provided the most beautiful space to pray already.
On our last day there, I rose early to climb this mountain (to a temple) to watch the sunrise. The sunrise itself was unremarkable, but the view was astounding! I felt a bit stupid climbing up in the dark, alone, but I'm glad I did it. Later, Lidia and I climbed 500 steps to the Hanuman (Monkey) temple which was also very nice, followed by some other temples and then a great fight with the rickshaw driver (excitement!). Later still, we took a coracle boat down the river to some other temples (see? too many temples!). I got to paddle the coracle boat for awhile, it's quite easy actually. So that was our last day, but it was the busiest day. We did so much, I was truly exhausted afterward.
Yesterday, we left Hampi to come to Puttaparthi. I was lucky, and got a room in the Ayurveda center. Lidia and I went to the ashram for dinner. It is a really really weird, cultish kind of place. People are fanatical about Sai Baba, and they all seem to believe he is God. Literally. This shit kind of gives me the creeps. The ashram is like a village. It was shops and restaurants and banks, it's huge. There are some really arbitrary rules, like women must have a shawl over their shoulders, but apparently they aren't dictated by Sai Baba (but you can't come in if you don't have a scarf and you're a woman). One positive thing I'll say, is that you don't have to worry about being ripped off in there. Everyone is really fair and honest. Everything is cheap, which means that even the poorer Indians can afford to come, and there are lots of Indians there. Indians come, as well as many foreigners, as a sort of pilgrimage. Anyway, the place kind of gives me the creeps, but it's interesting to see. Heh, there is this huge bookstore and I got all excited, but then when I started looking around I realized it was all books on Sai Baba. Not a single book about anything else!
Oh well, as I said, I am staying at the Ayurveda clinic. I am going to look into to doing some treatments, like maybe Panchakarma, I'll have to see what the doctor thinks. I don't know yet how long I'll stay, I may have some difficulties getting out of here, just due to trains being full and such... we'll see.
I think Lidia won't talk to me anymore. I saw her this morning at breakfast and she would barely look at me. Don't get me wrong, her temper tantrum wasn't entirely groundless, but it was definitely an overreaction to a small affair and to be honest, I don't really care to apologize to her. Mostly, because I'm not sorry. I think I put up with enough of her crap to be a bit annoying once in a while. But yeah, wah wah wah, as I always say.
One more thing though, the fight with Lidia was about shoes. Ever since my shoes were stolen, I cannot find a decent pair of sandals. I have already broken 3 pairs of Indian sandals, and then I ditched another pair because they were so uncomfortable. Today I bought another pair, my 5th pair, I hope they'll be good. *fingers crossed* *toes crossed*
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
The Universe answers me through Italian telepathy
I have spent the last week relaxing on the beach. It's so peaceful here. I get up in the morning, and I walk down to the end of the beach and scramble over these rocks to a secluded sandy cove. In the cove I practice yoga followed by a swim, then I scramble back over the rocks, walk along the serf and grab some breakfast at a restaurant overlooking the beach. It's like paradise.
My second day here it was raining really hard, which is rare for this time of year. I went to a little bakery and had a coffee and croissant while waiting for it to let up. I saw these two women at another table deeply engaged in conversation and I suddenly felt a bit jealous of their friendship and intimacy. As cheesy at it may sound, I asked the universe to introduce me to a woman companion, because I was (and still am) quite sick of just meeting men all the time. Sure enough, just a couple hours later, I met this Italian woman Lidia, she showed me the way to that little private cove and we went for a swim and then for lunch together. Her English is pretty good, but it is clear she does not always understand what I am talking about, but never mind. She was very helpful in finding me the cheaper place where I am staying now.
The other day I was sitting on the beach and wondering how I would ever leave this place, it's just too perfect. I thought that perhaps I would just develop inertia and end my travels in India by becoming a beach bum here. I wasn't sure it was such a great idea though since I want to see Kerala and I wasn't sure I wanted to spend Christmas alone on this beach. So again, I asked the universe for some guidance. I was walking from the beach to my room when I saw Lidia. She exclaimed that she had been looking for me! That first day that we had had lunch together I had mentioned in passing that I was interested in seeing Hampi and it got her thinking that she would also like to see Hampi. Lidia proposed that I accompany her to Hampi on Friday, December 17th and then go with her to her flat in Putaparthi to spend Christmas with her. She had already looked into the trains and there was still space. It was absolutely incredible that twice now she had answered my queries to the universe! Naturally, I said yes.
In Putaparthi there is a big ashram and an Ayurveda centre. I am looking into staying at the Ayurveda centre because Lidia says it's very nice and clean and cheap. Her flat, although big, is still new and unfurnished, she only has a bed, but if I have troubles finding accommodation I can stay with her. It's always nice to have a sure back up plan!!
On the weekend I received an email from Abby and he told me he was in Goa at Palolem, which is just the next beach over (about 7km away). I told him I was at Agonda and where I was staying and said he should come find me. To complicate things, my phone does not work at Agonda, although apparently it works at Palolem (Abby is on the same network as me), so we had no way to plan it. Abby decided to come yesterday, but I did not use the internet yesterday, so I did not know he was coming. Naturally, I was off doing my thing, and it took him 2 hours to find me! In his search for me he managed to find Lidia, and she told him some places he might try looking for me at. It was amazing when he finally found me because I was just about to leave this cafe to go check my email to see if he was coming or not and when. It was such a joy to see a familiar face. We went for lunch at this amazing organic cafe in the jungle. Before Abby left to go back to Palolem, we decided to go down to the beach for a swim. While we were swimming I turned around and saw something with giant eyes behind Abby. Abby and I freaked out and swam as quickly as possible, while laughing, back to shore. Abby was convinced it was a crocodile, because that's what it looked like, but it turns out we saw a giant monitor lizard. Apparently not dangerous, but quite frightening and not really a desirable partner, for me, while swimming in the great Arabian sea.
Today, like most days, I spent all day on the beach reading. I was thinking that I felt like Italian food tonight. There is an Italian restaurant which Lidia tells me is quite good. I was leaving the beach, and who should I see but Lidia! She told me that she had spoken to the Italian restaurant and they were making fresh ravioli, so she had asked them to save her a portion for tonight. Seriously, this woman reads my mind! Even if our spoken conversations are sometimes a little convoluted and confusing, our universal telepathy is crystal clear!
My second day here it was raining really hard, which is rare for this time of year. I went to a little bakery and had a coffee and croissant while waiting for it to let up. I saw these two women at another table deeply engaged in conversation and I suddenly felt a bit jealous of their friendship and intimacy. As cheesy at it may sound, I asked the universe to introduce me to a woman companion, because I was (and still am) quite sick of just meeting men all the time. Sure enough, just a couple hours later, I met this Italian woman Lidia, she showed me the way to that little private cove and we went for a swim and then for lunch together. Her English is pretty good, but it is clear she does not always understand what I am talking about, but never mind. She was very helpful in finding me the cheaper place where I am staying now.
The other day I was sitting on the beach and wondering how I would ever leave this place, it's just too perfect. I thought that perhaps I would just develop inertia and end my travels in India by becoming a beach bum here. I wasn't sure it was such a great idea though since I want to see Kerala and I wasn't sure I wanted to spend Christmas alone on this beach. So again, I asked the universe for some guidance. I was walking from the beach to my room when I saw Lidia. She exclaimed that she had been looking for me! That first day that we had had lunch together I had mentioned in passing that I was interested in seeing Hampi and it got her thinking that she would also like to see Hampi. Lidia proposed that I accompany her to Hampi on Friday, December 17th and then go with her to her flat in Putaparthi to spend Christmas with her. She had already looked into the trains and there was still space. It was absolutely incredible that twice now she had answered my queries to the universe! Naturally, I said yes.
In Putaparthi there is a big ashram and an Ayurveda centre. I am looking into staying at the Ayurveda centre because Lidia says it's very nice and clean and cheap. Her flat, although big, is still new and unfurnished, she only has a bed, but if I have troubles finding accommodation I can stay with her. It's always nice to have a sure back up plan!!
On the weekend I received an email from Abby and he told me he was in Goa at Palolem, which is just the next beach over (about 7km away). I told him I was at Agonda and where I was staying and said he should come find me. To complicate things, my phone does not work at Agonda, although apparently it works at Palolem (Abby is on the same network as me), so we had no way to plan it. Abby decided to come yesterday, but I did not use the internet yesterday, so I did not know he was coming. Naturally, I was off doing my thing, and it took him 2 hours to find me! In his search for me he managed to find Lidia, and she told him some places he might try looking for me at. It was amazing when he finally found me because I was just about to leave this cafe to go check my email to see if he was coming or not and when. It was such a joy to see a familiar face. We went for lunch at this amazing organic cafe in the jungle. Before Abby left to go back to Palolem, we decided to go down to the beach for a swim. While we were swimming I turned around and saw something with giant eyes behind Abby. Abby and I freaked out and swam as quickly as possible, while laughing, back to shore. Abby was convinced it was a crocodile, because that's what it looked like, but it turns out we saw a giant monitor lizard. Apparently not dangerous, but quite frightening and not really a desirable partner, for me, while swimming in the great Arabian sea.
Today, like most days, I spent all day on the beach reading. I was thinking that I felt like Italian food tonight. There is an Italian restaurant which Lidia tells me is quite good. I was leaving the beach, and who should I see but Lidia! She told me that she had spoken to the Italian restaurant and they were making fresh ravioli, so she had asked them to save her a portion for tonight. Seriously, this woman reads my mind! Even if our spoken conversations are sometimes a little convoluted and confusing, our universal telepathy is crystal clear!
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Relaxing with the cows on the beach...
I knew that I had made the right decision to come to Goa when I got off the plane into the hot, dark, humid air on Wednesday. The cab driver who drove me to Agonda was lovely, and we shared a good laugh while he taught me some Konkani. When I got into Agonda it was just after 11pm and the place was dead. The boys at the place I was staying had waited up for me to arrive. After showing me my hut and getting me some water, they went off to bed also. Definitely not a party town!
I spent the first day basking in the sun and reading. It was delicious. I decided then that I wanted to stay for more than 4 nights, so I found some cheaper accommodation down the road. It turned out to be a bit awkward moving, which I did today. The owners of the first place were sad to see me go, and they were willing to bring down their price. Unfortunately, it wasn't just the price, I also prefer the place I'm staying now. It's much more private.
At my "beach hut" (which was not on the beach) my door opened to a view of the restaurant. Any time I opened my door I didn't know who I might see there. This morning, as I was packing up, I opened my window, and immediately I was greeted by the owner. It really drove home how eager I was to get out of there. I want to be able to open my window without drawing attention.
Hm... well, I really wanted to write all the stories over the last few days but I received some emails which have altered my mood. I no longer feel like writing. I think I will go contemplate on the beach awhile.
I spent the first day basking in the sun and reading. It was delicious. I decided then that I wanted to stay for more than 4 nights, so I found some cheaper accommodation down the road. It turned out to be a bit awkward moving, which I did today. The owners of the first place were sad to see me go, and they were willing to bring down their price. Unfortunately, it wasn't just the price, I also prefer the place I'm staying now. It's much more private.
At my "beach hut" (which was not on the beach) my door opened to a view of the restaurant. Any time I opened my door I didn't know who I might see there. This morning, as I was packing up, I opened my window, and immediately I was greeted by the owner. It really drove home how eager I was to get out of there. I want to be able to open my window without drawing attention.
Hm... well, I really wanted to write all the stories over the last few days but I received some emails which have altered my mood. I no longer feel like writing. I think I will go contemplate on the beach awhile.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Delighted in Delhi. Going to Goa.
I was absolutely ecstatic to get into Delhi last night! I could not stop grinning stupidly the whole walk up the busy Main Bazaar to my hotel. It is preferable to have a straight face when walking alone here as it invited less attention, but I just could not contain my joy! At last freedom! At last warmth!
Leaving Srinagar was intense and irritating. The airport security is strict and I sense, ineffective, kind of like American airports. I had my bag scanned 3 times, my purse emptied out for scrutiny, I was patted down 3 times, and I had to identify my bag before it could be loaded onto the plane. It took almost 3 hours for me to go through all the lines of security. Luckily, I had given myself plenty of time, so I had about half an hour to kill (my flight was delayed) and a security officer suggested I do some shopping. I told him that all people in Kashmir ever talk about is shopping and I don't want to shop anymore. He gave me a pinched smile and did not talk to me again (thank god!). I was so sick of Kashmiri people by that point, I had no interest in engaging with anyone. Every single person I met asked me for money. Even the imam who lived on the adjacent houseboat asked me for some charity for his daughter's surgery. I think it's kind of ironic that Kashmir prides itself on having no beggars and yet almost every single Kashmiri person I met asked me for money.
I gave Gulam about $120 for everything- the 3 day tour and room & board. I did my own recalculation of how much I thought everything should cost. It was fair and he was disappointed but he did not object (which is the true sign that it was still profitable for him). Today I met Abdulla for a coffee and to return his coat. When I told him that I had felt tricked, he acted shocked and offended (surprise surprise) and he denied my impressions. He said that it was not about money and that I did not have to pay Gulam anything (right, "as you like"). Honestly, I like Abdulla, which is how I was persuaded to go on this terrible trip in the first place, so I accepted his explanation, even if I did not believe it. I will accept that in his mind, Kashmir is a beautiful place to go and that he was providing an interesting experience to me. His intentions were not to make me uncomfortable, au contrair, he is hoping that I will tell all my friends and family what a wonderful place it is so that they will also go there.
Actually, being there kind of reminded me of Egypt with everyone constantly haranguing you for money. Only it was really freaking cold, there were no baffling sites (like pyramids) and the people were less overt about their intentions. So yeah, I would say Egypt is worth the trouble, Kashmir, well, we have plenty of mountains and lakes in Canada. I also know some houseboats you could probably go stay on if you're interested...
Well, I have to go. I have a taxi booked to go to the airport. My flight has been delayed by more than 4 hours to Goa. It seems this is normal of Indian airlines, whereas the trains have (so far) all been very punctual. Okay, gotta go. Don't worry dear friends and family, I am quite well, and I did not lose too much money in my (mis)adventure. :)
Leaving Srinagar was intense and irritating. The airport security is strict and I sense, ineffective, kind of like American airports. I had my bag scanned 3 times, my purse emptied out for scrutiny, I was patted down 3 times, and I had to identify my bag before it could be loaded onto the plane. It took almost 3 hours for me to go through all the lines of security. Luckily, I had given myself plenty of time, so I had about half an hour to kill (my flight was delayed) and a security officer suggested I do some shopping. I told him that all people in Kashmir ever talk about is shopping and I don't want to shop anymore. He gave me a pinched smile and did not talk to me again (thank god!). I was so sick of Kashmiri people by that point, I had no interest in engaging with anyone. Every single person I met asked me for money. Even the imam who lived on the adjacent houseboat asked me for some charity for his daughter's surgery. I think it's kind of ironic that Kashmir prides itself on having no beggars and yet almost every single Kashmiri person I met asked me for money.
I gave Gulam about $120 for everything- the 3 day tour and room & board. I did my own recalculation of how much I thought everything should cost. It was fair and he was disappointed but he did not object (which is the true sign that it was still profitable for him). Today I met Abdulla for a coffee and to return his coat. When I told him that I had felt tricked, he acted shocked and offended (surprise surprise) and he denied my impressions. He said that it was not about money and that I did not have to pay Gulam anything (right, "as you like"). Honestly, I like Abdulla, which is how I was persuaded to go on this terrible trip in the first place, so I accepted his explanation, even if I did not believe it. I will accept that in his mind, Kashmir is a beautiful place to go and that he was providing an interesting experience to me. His intentions were not to make me uncomfortable, au contrair, he is hoping that I will tell all my friends and family what a wonderful place it is so that they will also go there.
Actually, being there kind of reminded me of Egypt with everyone constantly haranguing you for money. Only it was really freaking cold, there were no baffling sites (like pyramids) and the people were less overt about their intentions. So yeah, I would say Egypt is worth the trouble, Kashmir, well, we have plenty of mountains and lakes in Canada. I also know some houseboats you could probably go stay on if you're interested...
Well, I have to go. I have a taxi booked to go to the airport. My flight has been delayed by more than 4 hours to Goa. It seems this is normal of Indian airlines, whereas the trains have (so far) all been very punctual. Okay, gotta go. Don't worry dear friends and family, I am quite well, and I did not lose too much money in my (mis)adventure. :)
Saturday, December 4, 2010
crazy, stupid and LUCKY
So I just posted the blog I started writing on the 2nd, before I caught my flight to Srinagar. I didn't want to post it in case I got some other people worrying, so I thought I would just sit on it until I knew the outcome. The blankets were just blankets, just like the coffee was just coffee, and now I see why: it is absolutely freezing here. It goes down to -10C at night, and I am staying on a houseboat/hut with no heating in the middle of a lake.
It seems this experience is, in fact, a bit of a scam. Abdulla's brother, Gulam, is definitely trying to extract money from me, albeit, in a fairly honest fashion. I mean, I was certainly tricked into coming here. No person in their right mind would agree to come to Srinagar right now to stay on a houseboat which they had never seen, nor even negotiated the price for beforehand and where they are at the mercy of the proprieter whenever they want to leave. I was led to believe that I was being invited as a guest, but when I got here I saw that I had a room- like a hotel (only it's a hut in the lake) and that I was not staying with the family. I got worried about how much he would want to charge me. I talked to him last night and he said "as you like." which I hate, because it's vague, but I also like, because I trust he means it. Then he sold me a 3 day tour package for about $100, which is an extraordinary rip off. I don't know why I said yes, I guess I felt a bit pressured, and I wasn't sure how big a rip off it was at first. Today, the first day of my tour, I realized how bad a deal it really is.
I was shipped off to visit a series of gardens. They were nice, but it's winter, so the flowers are all dead, lots of the fountains are either dry or frozen, and they're a bit depressing. Driving around to get to them was interesting, seeing all the army guys with their guns and bullet proof vests and all the barbed wire. I've never seen so much barbed wire in my whole life.
After the gardens I was taken to a carpet making "factory." The carpet factory was nothing but a warehouse where the owner tried to sell me carpets and then, when I wasn't interested, he hit on me. Ah, the joys of India. My driver informed me afterwards that that place is not a good deal, but if I wanted a good deal he could get one for me. He gave me his number. Haha... man, Gulam would be pissed if he found out! But I wouldn't tell him, I believe that my driver, Mairaj, is actually a good person. Gulam is a good person, but he's a shrewd business man, and the latter has more influence on his relationship to me.
Despite all the scamming and scheming, I am having an interesting time. I have been included in all the family preparations for the wedding. Last night all the women got together and sang. Tonight we will do that again, and someone will come to do henna for all the women. The couple getting married are poor, so it is a small wedding and it is only 3 days. Only about 30 people will attend. I am curious how it will be.
It is so cold here that everyone wears these long dresses, like a mumu, and then has a little wicker basket with hot coals in it that they hold under their dress. It's quite effective at keeping you warm. Brilliant thinking! They have lent one of their dresses to wear over my clothes. I only have one long sleeved shirt and one decent pair of pants so it looks like I'll be wearing the same outfit this week. My long sleeved shirt I even wear to sleep! This is a whole new level of hygiene for me. I change my clothes more often when I'm camping!! Oh well, what can I do?! I can't wash anything, because what would I wear while waiting for it to dry? I can't wait to warm up in Goa next week!!!
I'm crazy for flying to a stranger's home so far North in India. I am stupid for not realizing it would be about money. And I am LUCKY that it was for nothing worse.
I have so much more to say, but I think I should get going. Ciao ciao.
It seems this experience is, in fact, a bit of a scam. Abdulla's brother, Gulam, is definitely trying to extract money from me, albeit, in a fairly honest fashion. I mean, I was certainly tricked into coming here. No person in their right mind would agree to come to Srinagar right now to stay on a houseboat which they had never seen, nor even negotiated the price for beforehand and where they are at the mercy of the proprieter whenever they want to leave. I was led to believe that I was being invited as a guest, but when I got here I saw that I had a room- like a hotel (only it's a hut in the lake) and that I was not staying with the family. I got worried about how much he would want to charge me. I talked to him last night and he said "as you like." which I hate, because it's vague, but I also like, because I trust he means it. Then he sold me a 3 day tour package for about $100, which is an extraordinary rip off. I don't know why I said yes, I guess I felt a bit pressured, and I wasn't sure how big a rip off it was at first. Today, the first day of my tour, I realized how bad a deal it really is.
I was shipped off to visit a series of gardens. They were nice, but it's winter, so the flowers are all dead, lots of the fountains are either dry or frozen, and they're a bit depressing. Driving around to get to them was interesting, seeing all the army guys with their guns and bullet proof vests and all the barbed wire. I've never seen so much barbed wire in my whole life.
After the gardens I was taken to a carpet making "factory." The carpet factory was nothing but a warehouse where the owner tried to sell me carpets and then, when I wasn't interested, he hit on me. Ah, the joys of India. My driver informed me afterwards that that place is not a good deal, but if I wanted a good deal he could get one for me. He gave me his number. Haha... man, Gulam would be pissed if he found out! But I wouldn't tell him, I believe that my driver, Mairaj, is actually a good person. Gulam is a good person, but he's a shrewd business man, and the latter has more influence on his relationship to me.
Despite all the scamming and scheming, I am having an interesting time. I have been included in all the family preparations for the wedding. Last night all the women got together and sang. Tonight we will do that again, and someone will come to do henna for all the women. The couple getting married are poor, so it is a small wedding and it is only 3 days. Only about 30 people will attend. I am curious how it will be.
It is so cold here that everyone wears these long dresses, like a mumu, and then has a little wicker basket with hot coals in it that they hold under their dress. It's quite effective at keeping you warm. Brilliant thinking! They have lent one of their dresses to wear over my clothes. I only have one long sleeved shirt and one decent pair of pants so it looks like I'll be wearing the same outfit this week. My long sleeved shirt I even wear to sleep! This is a whole new level of hygiene for me. I change my clothes more often when I'm camping!! Oh well, what can I do?! I can't wash anything, because what would I wear while waiting for it to dry? I can't wait to warm up in Goa next week!!!
I'm crazy for flying to a stranger's home so far North in India. I am stupid for not realizing it would be about money. And I am LUCKY that it was for nothing worse.
I have so much more to say, but I think I should get going. Ciao ciao.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
crazy, stupid, both (December 2)
I think I might be crazy, or stupid, or both. I am flying to Srinagar today to go to a wedding. They have asked me to bring these blankets along; it reminds me of going to Egypt with that coffee. I know that it's ok, they really are only blankets, but the horror stories make me nervous. I don't want to be a camel or a mule, or whatever the expression is. Also, I don't even know the family I'm staying with. I have been assured there will be lots of women though. This morning, when I got into Delhi, I went to Abdulla's house and had a nap in his bed with his wife (not him, just me and his wife). What is considered culturally normal here is very different than home! Mind you, I was comfortable and slept well.
The bus was awful last night. At first it was okay, but then after we stopped somewhere for a pit stop another man sat beside me. The first man had been fine, but the second man had wandering hands. At one point I said I wanted to change seats (he had put his hand on my thigh!) but then he moved. He came back later though, I'm not sure why. He behaved after that but I was still uncomfortable and could not sleep anymore. The experience was a bit unsettling, which is why I think I am feeling a bit more trepidation over my trip to Srinagar. I pray it will be fine- better than fine- I pray it will be fun!
The bus was awful last night. At first it was okay, but then after we stopped somewhere for a pit stop another man sat beside me. The first man had been fine, but the second man had wandering hands. At one point I said I wanted to change seats (he had put his hand on my thigh!) but then he moved. He came back later though, I'm not sure why. He behaved after that but I was still uncomfortable and could not sleep anymore. The experience was a bit unsettling, which is why I think I am feeling a bit more trepidation over my trip to Srinagar. I pray it will be fine- better than fine- I pray it will be fun!
rishikesh
on sunday night i took the overnight bus from delhi to rishikesh. it was a grueling affair. the bus was 2 hours late to pick us up and when it did arrive, it was a terrible ride. the seats were bouncing all over the place; it seemed they were barely attached to the base of the bus. it was also freezing and the windows wouldn't close. that is, they would close, but then as the bus bounced along they would slide open again blasting you with cold air. luckily, while waiting for the bus, i made friends with a guy from argentina, nico. the only other foreigners were a couple from russia who really stuck to themselves. they were very unhappy about the state of the bus!
all in all it was fine. at least we made it anyway. we arrived into rishikesh around 7am and nico and i had a chai while we tried to recover from our ride. then we walked along the ganga, it was astounding!!! the air was so fresh and the wind was really howling. although the sun was up, we couldn't see it yet as it was hidden behind the himalayan mountains. I was so happy, despite the exhaustion.
i got a beautiful room overlooking the river in a hotel up in the mountains. i love my room. i love this place. yesterday i went for a small hike up to these waterfalls with nico, marnie (a girl from oz), and john (a bloke from england). we all went swimming in the waterfall's pool. then we had a lovely dinner last night.
today nico and i did a longer hike to this temple. the temple was nothing special, but the hike was amazing. so many monkeys. so many breath taking views. i am exhausted now. i am catching a night bus back to delhi tonight (oh the joy!!) so i have already checked out. thankfully, marnie has lent me her room key so i can go have a much needed nap.
tomorrow i'll be flying to srinagar. i kind of wish i had more time here. it is paradise. incidentally, some cops were killed in srinagar on monday. i have been assured by abdulla that's it's perfectly safe. i hope he's right!! i'll keep you posted.
all in all it was fine. at least we made it anyway. we arrived into rishikesh around 7am and nico and i had a chai while we tried to recover from our ride. then we walked along the ganga, it was astounding!!! the air was so fresh and the wind was really howling. although the sun was up, we couldn't see it yet as it was hidden behind the himalayan mountains. I was so happy, despite the exhaustion.
i got a beautiful room overlooking the river in a hotel up in the mountains. i love my room. i love this place. yesterday i went for a small hike up to these waterfalls with nico, marnie (a girl from oz), and john (a bloke from england). we all went swimming in the waterfall's pool. then we had a lovely dinner last night.
today nico and i did a longer hike to this temple. the temple was nothing special, but the hike was amazing. so many monkeys. so many breath taking views. i am exhausted now. i am catching a night bus back to delhi tonight (oh the joy!!) so i have already checked out. thankfully, marnie has lent me her room key so i can go have a much needed nap.
tomorrow i'll be flying to srinagar. i kind of wish i had more time here. it is paradise. incidentally, some cops were killed in srinagar on monday. i have been assured by abdulla that's it's perfectly safe. i hope he's right!! i'll keep you posted.
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