crazy, stupid and LUCKY

So I just posted the blog I started writing on the 2nd, before I caught my flight to Srinagar. I didn't want to post it in case I got some other people worrying, so I thought I would just sit on it until I knew the outcome. The blankets were just blankets, just like the coffee was just coffee, and now I see why: it is absolutely freezing here. It goes down to -10C at night, and I am staying on a houseboat/hut with no heating in the middle of a lake.

It seems this experience is, in fact, a bit of a scam. Abdulla's brother, Gulam, is definitely trying to extract money from me, albeit, in a fairly honest fashion. I mean, I was certainly tricked into coming here. No person in their right mind would agree to come to Srinagar right now to stay on a houseboat which they had never seen, nor even negotiated the price for beforehand and where they are at the mercy of the proprieter whenever they want to leave. I was led to believe that I was being invited as a guest, but when I got here I saw that I had a room- like a hotel (only it's a hut in the lake) and that I was not staying with the family. I got worried about how much he would want to charge me. I talked to him last night and he said "as you like." which I hate, because it's vague, but I also like, because I trust he means it. Then he sold me a 3 day tour package for about $100, which is an extraordinary rip off. I don't know why I said yes, I guess I felt a bit pressured, and I wasn't sure how big a rip off it was at first. Today, the first day of my tour, I realized how bad a deal it really is.

I was shipped off to visit a series of gardens. They were nice, but it's winter, so the flowers are all dead, lots of the fountains are either dry or frozen, and they're a bit depressing. Driving around to get to them was interesting, seeing all the army guys with their guns and bullet proof vests and all the barbed wire. I've never seen so much barbed wire in my whole life.

After the gardens I was taken to a carpet making "factory." The carpet factory was nothing but a warehouse where the owner tried to sell me carpets and then, when I wasn't interested, he hit on me. Ah, the joys of India. My driver informed me afterwards that that place is not a good deal, but if I wanted a good deal he could get one for me. He gave me his number. Haha... man, Gulam would be pissed if he found out! But I wouldn't tell him, I believe that my driver, Mairaj, is actually a good person. Gulam is a good person, but he's a shrewd business man, and the latter has more influence on his relationship to me.

Despite all the scamming and scheming, I am having an interesting time. I have been included in all the family preparations for the wedding. Last night all the women got together and sang. Tonight we will do that again, and someone will come to do henna for all the women. The couple getting married are poor, so it is a small wedding and it is only 3 days. Only about 30 people will attend. I am curious how it will be.

It is so cold here that everyone wears these long dresses, like a mumu, and then has a little wicker basket with hot coals in it that they hold under their dress. It's quite effective at keeping you warm. Brilliant thinking! They have lent one of their dresses to wear over my clothes. I only have one long sleeved shirt and one decent pair of pants so it looks like I'll be wearing the same outfit this week. My long sleeved shirt I even wear to sleep! This is a whole new level of hygiene for me. I change my clothes more often when I'm camping!! Oh well, what can I do?! I can't wash anything, because what would I wear while waiting for it to dry? I can't wait to warm up in Goa next week!!!

I'm crazy for flying to a stranger's home so far North in India. I am stupid for not realizing it would be about money. And I am LUCKY that it was for nothing worse.

I have so much more to say, but I think I should get going. Ciao ciao.